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Last update 5 March, 1998
I had always wanted to go to England. I dreamed of it as a child. At first it was the place where the Beatles and James Bond came from, and later King Arthur and Monty Python. I read a lot about it but never went. Then finally in 1994, I decided to make my first trip. I'd like to share it with you, and I hope you don't wait as long as I did to go.
Before I begin, I want to say that I had been studying Britain for a few years beforehand by reading books about their archaeology, their history, and several tourist guides to get an idea of what I might see there, plus every video I could get my hands on. At the same time I had gotten a few maps so I could figure out where everything was as I read about it. I guess I did this more out of fascination because I've been in love with Britain ever since I found out about it. And secondly I suppose I was being an "armchair traveller" since I never really expected to go there, so all I could do was read and watch and study maps. My former situation was with someone who hated to travel even outside of the Fort Worth area, so for a time I didn't foresee any way to visit Britain. But when that relationship came to an end, I began traveling as I'd always wanted to, first here and there in the States and Canada, and finally I decided to go to Britain this year. The reason I mention this at all is because if one travels to a place without studying it beforehand, they may be at a loss as to what to see or where it is. Not to say that everyone needs to study a place for years and years, but that a little information goes a long way.
So, using the books and maps I had as a guide, I made an itinerary of the places I really wanted to see. I'm really an amateur archaeologist at heart and more of an explorer than a sightseer, so I concentrated more on ancient historical areas rather than on tourist places. I had a rough idea of the areas I wanted to go into, and planned a route that would get me to the most places in the two weeks that I had. I went with a friend of mine who lives in Canada, and who also was interested in visiting Britain. It's definitely better to go with someone, not only for security, but for someone to talk to and to share the experience with. We started on a Sunday (Saturday here, but you lose about 14 hours on the way over). We landed at Gatwick, which is about 30 miles south of London. They still use miles all over Britain, which is convenient.
I had reserved a rental car before we left, so we went to the rental agency at the airport and got the keys. I have a book on driving in Britain, but nothing can quite prepare you for it. It's best to know what to expect in the way of signs and so forth but you really just have to do it to understand. The reality of driving on the other side of the road was a shock for about 2 minutes. Our mind is wonderful at transposing things. Since I was on the other side of the car, and since, as here, the slow lane is on the outside, and since everyone else was driving the same way (I.E. oncoming traffic was on the right) it was like a perfect mirror-image of driving here, and I adjusted quickly. The thing I was not quite prepared for, though I had read about it, was that in Britain they do not have stop signs or traffic lights as a general rule. They have traffic circles, known as roundabouts, at every intersection. This was a little harder to adjust to, especially going clockwise instead of counter-clockwise. But by the second day I was pretty confident in this too. So, If you go to England and rent a car, those are the only things that you need to master, the roundabouts. The driving on the left is a piece of cake, don't let anyone kid you. I had so many people tell me how hard it was going to be, and it just wasn't true.
There are three basic kinds of roads in Britain. The M roads are at least 4 lane, divided highways (dual carriageways) quite like the Interstate here. The A roads are more like state highways here, though generally a bit narrower. The B roads are hard to describe, but at worst they're one lane. They're still good roads though. I didn't encounter any dirt or gravel roads at all. Even the smallest road was paved nicely with no potholes. One oddity: I did not see a single "pickup truck" anywhere in Britain.
My basic route was to go to Salisbury, then Stonehenge, then Glastonbury, and off to Cornwall in the west. So that's where we ended up going. Salisbury is a quaint town and has a beautiful cathedral and walled-in part of the town. The area, known as Wiltshire, is very beautiful and has a lot of woods and hills. There are also old Roman roads there, as in most parts of England. We stayed in a Bed and Breakfast (B&B) in a farmhouse the first night. I'll summarize lodgings later. We went to Stonehenge, and it was awesome. I can't explain it better than that. You can't get up close and touch or walk among the stones, but you can get close enough to admire it properly. But Stonehenge is only one of many, many stone circles and hanging stones (henges) to see in Britain. It's probably the largest, but if you're really into that kind of thing, please don't stop with Stonehenge. That's why I wanted to go to Cornwall. There are so many other stones there that it would take a year to find them all! For example, one of my favorites is Lanyon Quoit, which is in Cornwall just northwest of Penzance.
After Stonehenge, we went to Glastonbury which is a very quaint town and we ate lunch in a tea room. The man at the car park let us have unlimited parking for the price of one hour, since it was late in the day. We found this sort of hospitality everywhere we went. After lunch, we visited the ruined cathedral built in probably the 11th century. It was awesome too. We saw the famed thorn tree that was supposedly the result of a visit by Joseph of Arimathea sometime after Christ's death. Joseph, tired after his journey, thrust his staff in the ground, and it blossomed into the only thorn tree in the northern hemisphere. We stayed nearby that night in Churchstanton, and the next day headed to Cornwall. We stopped in Penzance (Pirates of Penzance fame) and walked around the town and had lunch. Then we visited Lanyon Quoit and a ruined castle called Chun Castle, and back to Penzance. We stayed in Catchall and the next day visited St. Michael's Mount, which is a castle/fortress on an island out in the harbor just east of Penzance (actually in Marazion), then another ruin called Carn Brea, and Land's End, which I think of as the "end of the world." Then we drove around the north of the Peninsula through St. Ives. We had to stop for a few minutes for oncoming traffic- a woman herding her cattle down the road! There are a lot of new wind-generating plants all over the hillside. They're really big windmills, and usually in a cluster of several together.
Heading north the next day, we visited Tintagel Castle which is connected somehow with the Arthur legend. It is a fascinating place. Then north into Wales, where we stayed near Cardiff and then visited Cardiff Castle and the city. Cardiff is the largest and most modern city in Wales. Some say it is "too English" but in any case it is a nice city and has a lot of shops as well as the castle and even a small stone circle.
In Wales, all signs are bilingual, usually Welsh first, then English. So after a while you get used to terms like "croeso" and "araf" and "clyw". After leaving Cardiff, we headed for a "must see" stop on my itinerary, Nevern castle. This is nothing more than a high mound in the woods now, with a surrounding low flat area that used to be a courtyard. It is known as a "motte-and-bailey." But a little imagination and you can almost feel the presence of the people who lived there. Nearby Nevern churchyard has one of the oldest and most intact Celtic crosses still standing in Wales. And only a few miles south on a 'C' road is wonderful Pentre Ifan, one of the largest and best-kept burial cairns I've seen. It is a henge, like Lanyon Quoit, and bears the same design, which I'm told originated in Ireland.
Then we were off to Aberaeron on the Welsh coast where we stayed the next night and got to try some "Pub grub" and ale. There I learned that the 10:30 PM cutoff time for serving beer is only a theoretical time. I wanted to try another kind of ale but it was getting close to 11 PM. I asked the barman if I could get another, since it was after 10:30. He bent close and said in a quiet voice, "We don't worry about that around here." The next day we were off through the Welsh countryside, seeing magnificient Snowdon and the other huge mountains, then to Caernarfon Castle which is where Prince Charles' investiture took place. It's really neat to go exploring in a castle. You can go through all the hallways in the walls and see the rooms, and up to the turrets, and down to the kitchen, and so forth. But on the isle of Anglesey we found many more standing stones and graves, and spent a couple of days there. Some of the monuments are right in the middle of a farmer's field, and it seems strange to be walking through a herd of sheep and in the middle of someone's property, but I assure you it is quite legal and normal there, not like here. The stones have been there much longer than any so-called owner of the land, and the government gives us rights to visit the landmarks, regardless of whose field it supposedly is.
Anglesey was one of the best parts of the visit, even equal to Cornwall. From there we drove along the Northern Welsh coast to Holywell and Flint, then to Chester (England) and Liverpool where we visited the Beatles Museum. In the museum is a recreation of the old Cavern Club where the Beatles originally played, complete with chairs and stage. We could imagine ourselves being in a real club because it is highly detailed and seemed to scale.
Then we were off to Lancaster and up to Edinburgh, Scotland for a day, then back down the eastern side to Sherwood Forest, then Stratford-on-Avon where Shakespeare lived. Outside of Oxford is a magnificent stone circle called the Rollright Stones, which is a really awesome sight to see. Some unnamed presence exists here. Then on the last day we visited Windsor Castle and I finally got to stand on the Long Walk, which is a driveway from the castle that leads out to the countryside miles away. It's a beautiful view.
Coming back to the states, we gained several hours, so we arrived only a few hours after we left. This seemed like a free gift, but beware, because it turned out that we were really tired.
In closing, that's a capsule of my first trip to Britain. I'm sure I could take the same route again and see entirely different things. I didn't expect to see all I did, and most of it wasn't what I saw on the videos, so I suppose wherever you go you can find something to see. The island is so dense and compact that it's not far from anywhere to anywhere else.
Now, onto tips:
1) You need a passport, but no visas if you're a citizen of the USA or Canada. And you don't need any shots or immunization certificates.
2) Change your money before leaving the states, if possible. You can probably get it changed for free. Find a bank that has an international money exchange. As of 1994, $1 equals about 66 pence (100 pence to a Pound).
3) The voltage is 220 VAC 50 Hz everywhere, and they have strange outlets, so bring a plug adapter, and universal (120/240) appliances. I strongly discourage the use of voltage adapters because of the harm they can do to your appliances. Better to buy universal appliances before you go, or leave them at home. (Note: most places have a switchable 240/120 volt universal outlet above the mirror which is good for shavers and small appliances such as 120 volt camcorder chargers, etc. and which accepts American plugs.) Also be aware that the wall outlets quite often have an on-off switch on them. Up is off, down is on. Note also that the video system is different in Britain. You won't be able to view your camera's videos on the TV in your room. And if you run out of tape, make sure any tape that you buy is marked "NTSC compatible." The standard in Britain is PAL, which is not compatible with our video system. Camera film, on the other hand, is the same as here as are audio cassettes and CDs (and record albums).
4) The cheapest lodging is at B&B's, Youth Hostels, and the motels along the main motorways (M roads). The B&B's all offer an English breakfast inclusive, and you can select what you do or don't want. They have toast or muffins, cereal, eggs, bacon, sausage (no Spam?). Of course you can decline any part that you don't want and they won't make it for you. Try everything at least once! Some things don't taste or feel quite the same as here, but that's part of the fun. Be sure to try Marmite on your toast at least once. At the motels, you can have breakfast in the restaurant.
5) When searching for a B&B, find one before dark. A lot of them take their signs down after dark. Likewise, if you want a motel, don't wait too late. The motels are mostly at service stop islands on the M roads. They all have a restaurant in them. They fill up quickly at night. The average cost for a B&B or motel is 33 pounds per night for two. The motels do not include breakfast however. The motels have an advantage that there's a whole network of them all through Britain (Forte Travelodge is the biggest) and you can call ahead on a toll-free number and make a reservation if you know where you're going to land the next night.
6) Road food: The service islands on the M roads all have a restaurant, typically a Little Chef or a Burger King. Little Chef is a British chain that can be described sort of like a mix between Shoney's and Denny's It is owned by Travelodge, so you may find one attached to a Travelodge motel if you decide to stay there. They have the biggest hamburgers I've ever seen anywhere, and not bad either. Burger King is the same as here. You'll occasionally see a McDonald's as well. Or stop in any cafe or tea room in a town and you're sure to like something there. This is a bit more interesting if you have the time, because you get to interact a bit more with British folk. Oh, and the water is safe to drink everywhere in Britain.
7) If you're driving, accept the fact that wherever you park, they'll charge you. Rarely can one find free parking anywhere near something of interest.
8) The people all speak English, even in Wales. The accent is easy to understand (except in Scotland, where it's a bit of a challenge) but they use some different words. The most important is they don't say "rest room", it's either the toilet or the washroom (or a slang term is "The Loo"). Take your pick. Parking lots are car parks, elevators are lifts, shopping carts are trolleys, the side of the road is called the verge instead of the shoulder, and many of the other different terms you can guess when they say them or perhaps from watching Monty Python or other British comedies. But if you hear a term and you're not sure what it means, don't hesitate to ask!!! They'll tell you, trust me. French fries are potato chips, and ketchup is sauce. (Can I get some sauce for my chips, please?)
9) Gasoline prices at the pump are generally per liter, so don't be misled. This is the only "metric" intrusion I noticed in the British system. It's usually 50 to 60 p per liter, which comes out to about £ 2.40 pounds per gallon. Look around for the better prices. We found good prices at Elf and BP stations. Also I'm told that the supermarkets who carry petrol have very decent prices. And note that they still have regular (leaded) gasoline in addition to unleaded, so watch what you're getting. The leaded gas nozzle won't fit in an unleaded filler neck, just like here, as I accidentally discovered.
10) Grocery shopping. Most towns have a Safeway or Super Store which are like supermarkets here. If you can't find one, there are corner stores everywhere that have many things. I have not seen any 7-11 stores, though I've heard that they were coming to the UK.
Pharmacies are generally called chemists, though the word pharmacy is starting to become known. The chemist has many items that you would find in a drug store here.
(Note: I later learned that there WERE 54 7-11 stores in the UK but that they were sold to a non-7-11 operator and would be rebranded in 1998).
11) Some shops close early! So if you can't find a grocer or off-licence open in the evening, ask your B&B or hotel proprietor where you might find one.
12) If you need to wash clothes- somewhere in any town of any size is a "laundrette" which is exactly what you would find here in a laundromat. They are typically located on the "High Street" in town. Some of them even have a lady in charge who will take care of your things so you don't have to come back and see if the washer went off and switch the clothes to the dryer. But in any case, wash day is a good excuse to hang around in a town and see what the local people do while you wait for your clothes. We spent wash day in the quaint town of Holywell, Wales, which was very nice.
13) The weather is of a moderate climate all over Britain. The evenings can be cool even in summer, so take a sweater or jacket with you. And expect some rainy days, so an umbrella might be in order if you prefer. In winter, an overcoat is definitely needed. And don't forget sunglasses! Even on cloudy days, the sun is somehow still bright. This is probably why the people have rosy cheeks in Britain, and so will you after a few days. (If you've ever been to Seattle or the Pacific Northwest, the weather in Britain is very similar to that.)
14) Take a suitcase larger than necessary for the things you take over with you. All those maps, books, brochures, and souvenirs that you'll buy will have to fit somewhere when you get ready to leave, and it's really handy to put them in your suitcase if there's room. That way you won't have a lot of extra carry-on luggage. Of course if you purchase something big, you'll have to pack it separately or have it shipped home.
15) Have fun and don't worry. The people are all very nice and helpful. They're especially helpful to Americans who are trying to learn their ways, rather than those complaining about how things are so different or bad there. It's like a universal rule: If you carry a positive attitude, people will respond in kind. Be friendly, and they will be friendly. It really is a foreign country, but they're very forgiving if you're trying to learn their ways. (If you choose to be a whining American tourist, you'll get what you deserve. Moral: When in Rome, do as the Romans do!) About the long-circulated warning regarding purse snatching- Just use regular common sense and watch your things. It felt safer there to me than when I came back to the states.
Well, I hope that helps a little if you're planning to visit anywhere in Britain. Those tips were learned from experience and may not be in any books. I'm very thankful that my brochure "A Safe Trip Abroad" from the U.S. State Department didn't arrive until I had returned. This booklet was very negative and full of doom and gloom, almost enough to make one reconsider travelling abroad. They talked about everything from planes crashing to bombs at airports to being hijacked on the road to being robbed. In other words, this pamphlet seems to tell us all the reasons why we ought not to go abroad. But anyone with any spirit of adventure knows better. Worse things can happen right here in the states! Therefore, I personally do not recommend ordering this or perhaps any tourist booklets from our Federal Government. Please read about wherever you plan to travel from real travel books by people who have been there. A subscription to In Britain magazine may help to give you ideas on where to go and what to see. It can be ordered below.
Britrail has a mail-order bookshop where you can order books, maps, and videos on almost any topic relating to Britain. Write for a free brochure at:
Britrail Travel International, Inc.
1500 Broadway, 10th Floor
New York, NY 10036
Happy Travels!
John Cirillo
Now available! - our second trip to Britain, 1996. This one has many more photos! click HERE to go to it.
If you intend to travel and need suggestions on a packing list, be sure to check out John's Packing List.
This article is Copyright © 1996 by John Cirillo. All Rights Reserved.
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