Tom Fisher
(NOTE: I belong to a private International e-mail list server group for seniors called, Senior World. My wife and I attended a gathering of this group in Osaka, Japan in October, 2004. This is an account of our trip which I wrote up afterwards and sent to the group. I have also put together a 30 minute PowerPoint slide presentation which I would be happy to show to any group that is inclined. Just send me an email with a few days advance notice.)
Lil and I left home in the wee hours of the morning on Thursday, October 14th for the drive to Indianapolis. The flight on United Airlines to Chicago was uneventful and we got to our boarding area with lots of time to spare. Then, inexplicably, our flight to Kansai international airport in Osaka, Japan, was delayed with no explanation. It must have been something mechanical because, after about an hour's delay, an announcement was made that the mechanics had certified the plane air worthy and we started boarding. Our plane was a Boeing 777 and there wasn't a spare seat to be had. The flight lasted for about 13.5 hours and we actually landed at Kansai only about a half hour later than scheduled.
This was our first time on a 777 and I must say, we were impressed. There was a reasonable amount of leg room and plenty of food was served in route - I think we had two meals and a snack. There is a small TV screen on the back of the seat ahead of you and no less than four 2 hour movies were shown. And if movies weren't your cup of tea, there was an "On-Star" type of display at your disposal whereby you could watch our progress all the way to Japan. The screen would show the terrain below with us in the center. Readouts concerning the altitude, ground speed, distance traveled, outside temperature, etc. would periodically flash by - and I found myself to be more than just a little fascinated by this display. I was quite surprised to note that our route took us almost due north out of Chicago where we then veered left over northern Canada and tracked over the upper part of Alaska, the Bering Strait and down across Siberia.
When we got to the Osaka area, I immediately regretted that we had not been assigned window seats and, thus, could not look out and actually witness our approach to Kansai. Kansai, you see, is built on an artificial island that by most accounts qualifies as one of the modern wonders of the engineering world. Nevertheless, we landed uneventfully and proceeded to the baggage and customs clearing area. After clearing customs, we walked around a blind corner and - bang - there was Mitsue and Toshio along with some of our fellow S-W members to greet us. Esther Immer, her friend Anne Rafter, and Lily Leung had arrived about a half hour before us and they were there also to bid us welcome. Esther is from Seattle, Washington and Lily is from the Province of Saskatchewan in Canada. Even though I had never met Mitsue or Toshio, I had seen their pictures and knew them from our email exchanges - now it was just a matter of connecting the names to the faces. And that's how it is in S-W when you meet people for the first time - there really isn't a lot of ice that has to get broken. In no time at all, it feels real comfortable - sort of like donning an old pair of slippers that are familiar and just feel real good. Of course we already knew Esther and Lily from previous S-W gatherings and it was great seeing them and getting hugs all around.
We all then left the terminal building and got a train for the nearly one hour train ride to Osaka and our room at the Umeshin East Hotel. Oh, yes, I forgot to mention - we crossed the International Date Line between Alaska and Siberia and it was now Friday evening (about 4:30 PM) - a day later than when we started out. Coming into the Osaka area on the train reminded me some of going into the outskirts of Chicago on the train. Both are huge metropolitan areas and they have a very urban and cosmopolitan feel about them. Toshio told me that while Osaka itself has over two million people, the Osaka area and its environs takes in over eleven million people. That's a lot of stories in the naked city!
We got to Osaka station and then proceeded to walk to our hotel which, as it turned out, was probably about a mile or so away. Thank goodness we had purchased new luggage a few years ago - our bags have wheels and the handles which extend upwards making it a breeze to pull them along. We got to the hotel to find Miki waiting there to greet us. We had first met Miki in Seattle at an S-W gathering back in the summer of 2000 - and it was great seeing her again. Michel and Michéle from Paris were also there and we met them for the first time - and I got to say a big "Bonjour" - thanks to Michel's tip sheet that he had posted on his web site. I then asked Michel for help in differentiating between himself and his wife since their names are spelled so much alike. Michel said, Mike, would be okay but that he really preferred, Michel. He then told me to call his wife by her nickname, "Mimi." In meeting Mimi, she insisted that kissing four times while alternating cheeks is the way it needs to be done. And that is precisely the way I greeted her at the beginning of every day from then on - now I know why I like French people so much! After checking into the hotel and getting our room keys, we then all agreed to meet in about an hour for dinner.
Our room at the Umeshin East was very nice. We had twin beds which were low down near the floor - but were quite firm and comfortable. There was a flat panel TV in the room which I first mistook for a computer - it was only when I couldn't find a keyboard and instead saw the remote control that I realized it was a telly. I turned the TV on and immediately found a playoff game between the New York Yankees and the Boston Red Sox. I later came to realize that the reason for showing most of the Yankees games is because their left fielder, Hideki Matsui, is a national sports hero in Japan. After the Yankees were eliminated by Boston, there wasn't much coverage of the World Series - and it actually wasn't until we were home in Chicago nearly two weeks later that I found out that Boston had in fact gone on to win the World Series.
But I have to tell you - the best part of the hotel room was the toilet! About a week before our trip, I had done a Google search on the web for typical Japanese toilets and learned that, most of the time, they are of - shall we say - "the squatting" variety. So it was with more than a little trepidation that we approached our first hotel room in Japan not knowing what to expect of the bathroom. Thankfully, the toilet was a western style with a set of controls on the side which reminded me of a sophisticated ejection seat in an Air Force fighter plane. As a matter of fact, I kidded Lil to be careful when she used the "John" lest she eject herself through the ceiling! The controls were, of course, for the bidet and other water features.
For dinner that evening, Miki took us to a charming little place that was an easy walk from the hotel. I had fish with rice, crab soup, a salad, and some tofu. Lil had something similar and we all donned kimonos which were provided. A fine time was had by all - although we were all getting tired from the day's travels - and it was starting to show. We all went back to our hotel and crashed for the rest of the night.
Saturday, October 16th:
Breakfast was included in our daily room rate at the Umeshin East. It was a western buffet style which always featured scrambled eggs and bacon or sliced ham. There were croissants and rolls, salads, smoked salmon or herring, and always some kind of soup. But best of all was black coffee and orange or grapefruit juice. We never did find any decafeinated coffee for Lil but she soon learned to take a little black coffee and cut it a lot with milk or cream.
The formal S-W events weren't scheduled to begin until a dinner on Monday night. We had a mix-up of sorts right after breakfast as Mitsue had indicated the previous evening that she was going to take a train to Kobe on Saturday and those of us who wanted to could accompany her. I guess I misunderstood the departure time as when we got there in the lobby, the group had already left and thus, Lil and I were left to fend for ourselves.
Having concluded that we pretty much knew the area between the hotel and Osaka Station, Lil and I decided to go to the station as I needed to exchange two sets of papers for Japan Rail Passes for use during our second week. I also need some money and we figured we could find an ATM machine at Osaka Station. So, off we went. And in no time at all, we "discovered" the underground city below Osaka Station. I never did find a map of this place but below the train station fanning our in tunnels in all directions was this fabulous artificially lit array of shops and glitter that just seemed to go on forever. You would go down one tunnel for a ways and then the tunnel would branch out. You'd go down a branch and that one would branch out, til.....well, you get the idea. It was almost like something out of Alice in Wonderland. I've been to some big malls in my day but none of them would hold a candle to this. I also found the Japan Rail Pass office and that business was conducted handily. And I found an ATM which I worried might eat my card before I learned how to successfully use it. Fortunately, I figured the thing out and got my money - AND my card back!
Lil and I then found a nice tea and coffee shop (still no decaf!) and each had a nice coffee and a slice of "to die for" cheesecake. We then left the Osaka Station area and walked back toward the Umeshin East. Along the way we stopped in a book store and found our way to the seventh floor where we bought some post cards. Curiously, we found that many stores had escalators for going to the upper floors but only stairs for the way back - an interesting marketing ploy! I then tried to find an Internet Cafe‚ (I wanted to send a note home saying that we had arrived and were okay) only to find that, without any of our hosts present to interpret, communicating can be difficult if not impossible. We then went back to our hotel and called home for a brief chat just to let our kids know that all was well.
We gathered in the hotel lobby in the afternoon and were joined by Ichiro who, like Miki, we had first met in Seattle four years earlier. Also, we met Kees and Kekou for the first time - they are from the Netherlands. Mitsue was there with her daughter, Hiroko, and they offered to take anyone who wanted to go by bus to the Rihga Royal Hotel for a formal Japanese Tea. So, Esther, Anne, Lily along with Lil and myself agreed to go. We talked this over among ourselves and I think most of us thought this was going to be something like "High Tea" meaning that we would get a light meal consisting of finger food or small sandwiches. How wrong we were! The tea ceremony was fairly impressive and the Rihga Royal was, indeed, a princely if not opulent place. But there sure wasn't any food to be had. The tea ceremony consists of being served green tea by Kimono clad girls who are ever so polite. You first partake of a sweet morsel (kind of a mushy cookie) and then you are presented with a bowl of green tea. You then carefully rotate the bowl in your left palm three times finally stopping it on a portion devoid of markings. Then you drink three times consuming all the contents. And that's it. And, no - I don't have a clue what happens if you fail to do all of those things.
As I said, some of us were quite hungry by now. So when we got back to the hotel, Ichiro, Lily, Lil and I set out on foot to look for a place to eat. It was well past dark, now, and I don't think Ichiro had ever been to this part of Osaka - and the further we walked, the seedier the surroundings became. At one point we passed a place that had a "red light" look about it (replete with "staff" pictures, yet!) and Lily admonished me not to look. (Sorry, Lily, but I did steal a glance!) We finally settled on a place where Ichiro ordered skewers of chicken, green peppers and onions served with bowls of rice. It was very tasty and Ichiro ended up ordering several more skewers. This ends up being another night when, by the time we get back to the hotel, we are really tired and hit the sack for a good night's sleep.
Sunday, October 17th:
At breakfast at the Umeshin this morning, we are joined by Verbeck who has checked in overnight. Verbeck is from Seattle, Washington. It's always such a pleasure to see him. When you look up and see Verbeck at one of these S-W gatherings, you instantly know that all is well and that things are as they should be. After breakfast we are also joined by Jutta from Nova Scotia for the first time. Jutta has been here in Japan touring by herself for a while now and it is good to see her. I still have very fond memories of the time we spent at her place near Halifax.
Miki and Ichiro then accompany all of us to Osaka Station to purchase tickets for the train ride to Himeji Castle - which is one of Japan's four major and sacred places. It is designated a national treasure. Before I go on, let me say a word about Osaka Station as it typifies an important part of all the big cities that we visited. Traveling by rail is a primary mode of transportation in Japan and "The Station" is usually a big and important landmark in all big metropolitan areas. These stations are always very large and they fairly vibrate with the pulse of a very busy populace. We also found that merchants (department stores, etc.) seemed to realize the value of such exposure as there was invariably lots of nice window shopping to be had where one could see the latest fashions, etc. When giving directions, we would often hear references like, "so many blocks from the station...."The train ride took nearly an hour and we passed through several cosmopolitan areas as well as open country side. The train made frequent stops and, at one point, a mother with two young boys got on and sat across the isle from us. One boy was wearing an American style baseball cap and he would occasionally steal glances at us, sometimes looking away awkwardly after making eye contact. They got off the train after a couple of stops and, as we were sitting there waiting for the train to resume its journey. Lil noticed that the boy had left his cap on the seat. I immediately grabbed it and ran to the door which was still open. I leaned out and saw the mother and boys one of whom had just realized that his cap was missing. With tears streaming down his face, he saw me gesturing with his cap and started running toward me - all the while shouting, "Arigato, arigato gozaimas!" He finally got to me just a split second before the door started to close and I tossed him the cap. And while I knew full well that he was saying, "Thank you - thank you, very much," I couldn't for the life of me remember the Japanese expression for, "You're welcome!" (I have since learned that, "Doo itashimashite," is what I should have said - and trust me - I learned to say that often to the delight of many Japanese merchants as they were giving me change.) At any rate, that was one happy little camper and it made me feel real good knowing that I had done a good deed. Some things are universally understood in any language!
We finally arrived at the Himeji City station and transferred to a bus to make the short trip to the castle. Himeji Castle and its surrounding gardens and paths is a huge site comprising many acres. The 1980 mini series "Shogun" starring Richard Chamberlain was shot in large part right here on these grounds. Miki and/or Ichiro had made advance arrangements for us to be escorted by a tour guide who introduced herself as "Susuki." Susuki was a pert little gal in her early to mid twenties and she brimmed with enthusiasm as she showed us all around. She must not have learned English until after her mid teenage years (or that critical time when the ability to make certain sounds gets "hard wired") because she absolutely could not make the English "el" sound. But, to her credit, Susuki's verve and spunk more than made up for this and it was a real joy to hear her spout off the many facts about Himeji Castle that she seemed eager to want to pass on to us.
When we entered the Castle proper, we had to take our shoes off and leave them in convenient and well labeled "pigeon holes." While we were offered slippers of the "one size fits all" variety, Lil and I opted to go in our stocking feet. I don't remember exactly how far it is to the top floor of the castle - but we finally made it - after negotiating many, many long and narrow wooden stairs. Trust me - it was a long ways up there! On the top floor, one could look out through some grated open windows and see the surrounding countryside and misty hills in the distance. Looking down, I could see some of our party (the smart ones!) who had opted not to make this long and arduous trek. I instinctively took my hat off to wave at them, failing to first realize that I had propped my favorite sunglasses on the top of my hat. I no more that made one swipe with my hat than there went my sunglasses - flying in the breeze and landing right near the edge of the nearest steep roofed overhang. After uttering a short obscenity to myself, I instantly realized the error of my ways and chalked this on up to "that's the way it goes!" If some Japanese roof fixer some day runs across my sunglasses - "Well pal, I hope you enjoy them. Doo itashimashite!"
After leaving Himeji Castle, we stopped at a restaurant and had lunch. Or perhaps I should say, we "had at it!" As was commonly the case, this place had a static display outside which supposedly showed you a facsimile of the different dishes on their menu. Lil and opted for what we thought was going to be some tempura (fish dipped in a batter and fried) on a bed of rice. Instead, what we got was tempura that was floating in a bowl of soup - with rice on the side. And by the time we were able to retrieve some fish with our chopsticks, it was all soggy and falling apart. We fiddled with all this for a while and finally gave up chalking this up to experience. When we got back to Osaka and were walking back to the hotel, I spotted a McDonald's - and guess what Lil and I had for dinner that night?!
This had been another long and full day and the sack full of McDonald's hamburgers really did hit the spot back in our hotel room as we unwound, had showers and tried to make some sense of the TV news which of course we couldn't understand as the announcers only spoke in Japanese.
Monday, October 18th:
Breakfast again at the Umeshin and this time K C from Hong Kong has joined us. Lil and I had not met K C previously and found him to be an engaging and very conversant fellow. We had several in depth chats with him over the next several days and now, I would like to visit him sometime in his native Hong Kong and have him show us around.
Lil and I had brought with us some gifts to hand out and we had run short of some ribbon to place around each of our offerings. So, after breakfast, I went with Esther, Anne, and Lily as I overheard them say they were going back to a dollar store they had found the previous day. It turned out that the store was very close to the hotel and I actually went back to it on several occasions. Everything in the place was priced at 100 Yen and they really did have a good all around inventory of notions and accessories. I even found some ribbon that was close to what we needed.
At about mid morning, several of us then went on a boat trip on a river in downtown Osaka. We went about a mile up and back while a tour guide told us what we were seeing. It was probably just as well that I couldn't hear very well where I was seated as the guide only spoke in Japanese. But I did enjoy the sights and took several pictures along the way with my digital camera. At one point, I could overhear that we were going by an area where several homeless people were living in makeshift tents along the riverbank. I viewed that with mixed feelings - I guess some things are simply universal and Osaka is the same in that regard as any major city.
Mitsue then took us to a very fashionable and upscale restaurant that was located high up in one of Osaka's tall buildings. This was a place where the patrons are each seated around a grill. The Japanese cook - in this case, a young girl who looked to be in her early twenties - came to our table and proceeded to make each of us a concoction of chopped cabbage, onions, and an egg. Each serving ended up resembling an omelet and, as a finishing touch, each was topped with some flaked tuna and a sweet sauce. Whatever it was, it was quite tasty and really hit the spot.
We then had the afternoon to ourselves and to get ready for the formal dinner that evening which heralded the actual beginning of the S-W gathering. The gathering took place at a nice Japanese establishment that specialized in udonsuki with various additives such as sashimi, tempura, etc. There were about twenty people present at this event which included Miki's husband, Seiji, Ichiro's wife, Junko, Kaijiro and his wife, Harumi. Also, Verbeck had invited a lady by the name of Yasuko who apparently used to belong to another email group that some of us had once belonged to. Verbeck gave an impromptu introduction of his friend to the group and this seemed to set the stage for a nice evening. While there were several courses to our meal, the main one consisted of a big kettle of ingredients that cooked over a gas fire right there at your own table of four. The kettle contained lots of udon noodles in the bottom to which a broth was then added. Then, raw chicken, fish, shrimp, and vegetables were added. This mixture was then brought to a boil and allowed to simmer for quite some time. At this point, I must tell you that, just days before our trip, Lil found out that she was no longer allowed to take Vioxx for arthritis pain control (you may recall that Vioxx was recalled by the manufacturer due to complaints amid suspicions about its causing heart attacks). Instead, she was now struggling and trying to find some relief with some over the counter substitutes such as extra strength Tylenol. I don't know whether it was that or possibly a reaction to some ingredient such as MSG (Monosodium Glutamate - an additive often used in Chinese and Japanese cooking in the U.S. to enhance flavor). At any rate, something caused Lil to have an upset stomach and to start feeling nauseous. So, rather than risk an accident, I took Lil outside where we caught a taxi back to the hotel. Sorry that we had to miss what otherwise looked to be shaping up to be a very enjoyable evening. After a good night's sleep, Lil was feeling much better by the next morning.
Tuesday, October 19th:
The modern history of Japan starts about 710 A.D. with its first capital which was at Nara. And this is the day that we all pack our things to go there by train. Verbeck along with Lil and me had arranged to have our main baggage shipped ahead to Kyoto. By only taking an overnight bag to Nara, we saved ourselves the bother of dragging around the extra baggage. It is raining today, an aftermath of the first of two typhoons that hit Japan while we are there. The main brunt of this one has passed north and west of us and now the rain is the main thing we have to deal with.
We check into our hotel which is the Washington. It is a nice place and our room is similar to what we had in Osaka. We then assemble and head out for Todaiji Temple by bus. The original temple burned several hundred years ago. The present one is scaled to only 2/3 the size of the original. But get this, even at only 2/3 the size of the original, this building is the largest free standing wood structure in the world! We no sooner get on the temple grounds than we start seeing deer. These deer are similar to what we in Indiana called White Tailed deer. However, in Japan they are simply called White deer or shika - and they are revered - they literally have the run of any place where they are found. We also notice that almost without exception, we see lots of school children at the temple sites we tour - they seem to be on field trips. Sometimes it's small children - like up through the 6th grade or so. Other times, it is high school kids. But, no matter the age range, they are always dressed in very smart and well kempt uniforms. And they also like to practice their English. Quite often, as we pass a school group, we hear the familiar, "Hello!" And these kids have obviously learned the "el" sound very well. Of course, I can't resist the temptation to practice some of my nearly learned Japanese, also. I say things like, "Ohayo" or "Konnichi wa," (hello) and sometimes, "Hajimemashite," (nice to meet you). I sometimes don't know whose grin in bigger - mine or theirs!
Outside one temple building on this site, I see Lil engaged in a spirited chat with what looks like a young high school boy. He knows something about the state of Michigan and wants to know where we live in relation to that. When Lil tells him that we are from the neighboring state to the south, his eyes light up and he gets real excited. Then his teacher gets interested and wants to take the boy's picture alongside Lil. The next thing I know, I'm dragged into the picture and the rest of the kids are all excitedly carrying on like we're some kind of celebrities. I'll always wonder what kind of conversation results when that picture is shown around in Japan.
We have lunch that day in a small restaurant near the temple. Lil and I have a nice light rice pilaf which we have come to learn is a good thing to order. It usually consists of a generous helping of rice with bits of cooked shrimp or chicken and a few vegetable added. Not totally unlike what we would call "stir fry" back home. By now, I have finally gotten so that I can use chopsticks pretty handily - although I notice that our hosts often are "checking us out" in that regard. And by now, I've started to grow fairly comfortable with the Japanese monetary system. In real round numbers, a U.S. dollar is roughly equal to 100 Yen. So, when a meal costs say, 850 Yen, I know that means roughly $8.50. Imagine my shock back at the Umeshin in Osaka where we had the hotel do some of our laundry. We had the equivalent of one washing machine load of clothes and it cost about 6,000 Yen. (Yep - $60! Needless to say, we found coin operated laundromats after that.)
On the way back to our hotel, I spied a K F C sign. So, once we get settled in our rooms, I made a quick trip to the K F C store and got several pieces of Kentucky fried chicken along with some coleslaw and potatoes. Curiously, I noted that mashed potatoes were NOT an option on the menu (I am guessing that marketing surveys have indicated that mashed potatoes are not suited to the typical Japanese palate). Back at our hotel room, we ate our fried chicken and watched the Japanese equivalent of our World Series. The first game is between the Dragons and the Lions. And, get this - Tom Cruise is there to throw out the first pitch! There was lots of follow up coverage about Mr. Cruise who obviously is a much sought after commodity in Japan - no doubt due in part to his recent hit movie, "The Last Samurai." He obviously relished being at center stage in the Japanese limelight and constantly beamed his big effervescent smile while gushing, "Thank you, thank you." Frankly, however, we were a bit disappointed that he didn't once make any attempt at saying anything in Japanese. Gosh, Tom, a simple "Konnichi wa" would have probably gotten you lots of extra mileage! But then, what do I know about being a celebrity?!?! Oh, well.....
Wednesday, Oct 20th:
Just like in Osaka at the Umeshin, the Washington hotel in Nara featured a nice Western style breakfast with scrambled eggs and bacon or sliced ham as the center piece. After breakfast, Lil and I followed a map that the hotel staff had given us to an Internet Cafe‚ about three blocks away. Internet Cafes seemed to vary a lot in Japan. They ranged from nice clean well lit places to some that were downright seedy. One was even located in the back room of an adult video shop and getting to a usable terminal was downright distracting! Most of the time, I had to initially show my passport and even pay a modest fee to join and get a plastic membership card. But the rates were always reasonable (one place was even free) and more often than not, a complimentary cup of coffee or tea was included. I have a Hotmail account and was usually able to log on and get a message off to someone in fairly short order. And I usually had time to bring up a CNN web page to see the major world headlines.
I rained all day today in Nara. We all went to the train station and took a train to Horyuji Temple. At this point, I should differentiate between a temple and a shrine. First of all, though, it is necessary to comment on the religions of Japan. There are supposedly about 83 million people who practice some form of the Shinto religion. There are about 80 million who practice Buddhism. Considering that there are about 120 million people in the country, it doesn't require rocket science to quickly see that a lot of Japanese practice some of both of these two major religions. I won't attempt to define each of these faiths. However, when it comes to shrines and temples, shrines seem to go with the Shinto and temples with Buddhism. A true shrine is a sacred place and only Shinto priests are allowed to go inside the main building of a shrine. A torii (two uprights supporting a concave crosspiece with projecting ends and a straight crosspiece beneath it) usually stands at the entrance to a shrine as do two lion-dogs, one with its mouth open and the other with its mouth shut. Buddhist temples also have lots of rules associated with them. When you approach a threshold in a temple, you must step over first with your right foot. And I think you have to walk out backwards - so as to never turn your back on the Buddha. Flash pictures of the Buddha are a no-no, also.
The rain really got to us on this day. Our clothes were soaked by the time we got back to the hotel. We had borrowed umbrellas from the hotel and, as we came back in soaked to the skin like wet chickens, there were people from the hotel staff to greet us and give us a nice warm towel. Now THAT was a welcomed touch of class! But, dampened as our spirits were - guess what really cheered us back up. You guessed it - back to the K F C! Nothing like some Kentucky fried chicken to raise the spirits of the wounded. We ate our chicken that night and watched an old Robert De Niro movie "Midnight Run" which played with the actual English voices and Japanese subtitles. I truly hope that our Japanese hosts are not offended or feel slighted by the fact that Lil and I sometimes had some "non-traditional" meals. The fact of the matter is that we do not consider ourselves great food connoisseurs and often simply like to eat something familiar. When we visited U.K. back in 1996, we also sometimes frequented McDonald's and KFC.
Thursday, October 21st:
This is the day we move on to Kyoto. Kyoto is the 2nd capital of Japan - it obviously was the home of the family clan who came into power after Nara. We board the Shinkansen or bullet train. The ride over open countryside is nice. We see lots of bamboo along the way. At one point, Ichiro breaks out a package of monaka - a sort of cookie or bean jam filled wafer. As he passes these around, when he comes to me, he says, "Sorry, Tom, this is for ladies only!" So right away, I get out my note pad and start writing about what I now think is some ritualistic custom on the bullet train whereby ladies only get some sort of treat. To be sure I've got it right, I ask Ichiro to spell "monaka" and right away I see this perplexed look on his face that says, "What in the hell is he doing or thinking?!" I then tell Ichiro what I have concluded - and he and some of the ladies start laughing. It seems that Ichiro simply was sharing some cookies (monaka) and, at first, he wasn't sure there would be enough to go around. That's when he said, "Ladies only!" Realizing by now that there were if fact more than enough to go around - and as if to assuage my bruised ego - Ichiro then offers me one of his monakas. So, the joke was on me! Ha. I guess I'll chock that one up to, "Lost in translation!"
We get to Kyoto and on to the El Inn only to find that we can't check in to our rooms until after 2:00 PM. We then hear that 23 people were killed in the aftermath of the typhoon that passed just north of here during the night. We then go to the station and purchase a two day bus pass and proceed to see the sights of Kyoto. After a short bus ride, we find ourselves walking along what is called the "Philosopher's Path." It is a stone lined walkway along side a stream that comes from the mountains and is a little over a mile long. The canal and walkway are lined with nice shade trees and there are numerous shops and boutiques along the way.
We then arrive at the bottom of a steep hill where there is a temple at the top which is on our agenda. Esther invites Lil to accompany her on a rickshaw ride with a driver whose name is Yo. I am assured that Yo will deposit the ladies at the entrance to the temple at the completion of the ride. I decide to sit this one out and it is only later that I hear from Lil that Yo was the neatest thing since sliced bread - I think she would have taken him home with her if it were possible. Yo apparently had a real gift of gab and spoke English pretty well. Lil and Esther then toured the temple garden area and Lil really led me to believe that I had truly missed something special. There apparently were, among other things, many beautiful and well manicured gardens and sand sculptures. And there was lots of moss which is something that Lil is especially cracked about.
We finally go back to our hotel and get checked in. The baggage has arrived from Osaka (remember - we had our bags shipped to Kyoto and took overnight bags to Nara) and all is okay. Ten minutes later, we are headed back to the downtown area for dinner. Since this is going to be the last place some of us will be together for dinner, we (everyone except Miki, Ichiro, and Mitsue) all had previously agreed that it would be a nice gesture if we all chipped in and paid for our hosts dinners. Toward the end of our meal, Kees stands up and gives a wonderful and very eloquent impromptu speech conveying our sentiments and the fact the dinner is on us. Everyone was very touched and there weren't many dry eyes.
We then go to Gion Corner Theatre. This is traditional Japanese theatre arts. This includes bunraku (puppet shows), gagaku (courtly music), koto and shamisen music performances, ikebana (Japanese flower arrangement), kyogen (classic comic dramas), tea ceremony and dance, the full gamut of Japanese stage arts. This lasted a little over an hour and by now the effects of yet another long and full day were beginning to tell. We got back to our hotel and were glad to take a shower and hit the sack.
Friday, October 22nd:
After our usual Western breakfast (this one wasn't included in our hotel daily rate), we headed out for a subway trip to Nijo-jo Castle. This is the place where some of "The Last Samurai" was filmed. The place, features among other things, specially constructed wooden floors that have a design feature that causes them to squeak (hence, the nightingale sound) when trodden upon. The whole purpose of this was to prevent enemies from sneaking into the place and being able to mount an attack or surprise anyone. Another impressive feature at most of the temple and shrine sites was to note the massive stone blocks that were often used in constructing foundations, walls and barricades. These limestone blocks often weighed several tons and were sculpted with such precision that they fit together without the need for mortar.
A couple of amusing things happened this day that I would like to share. At one point, K C and I were taking a break at a temple. We were seated on benches at a wooden table in an otherwise open area that was under the balcony of a building. All at once, I heard K C chuckle as he pointed to a sign on the table which read, "Please do not feed a pigeon." I think we had just undergone an arduous climb to this area and I must have been in need of some comic relief. At any rate, reading that sign really tickled my funny bone and I started laughing out loud.
A while later, we were walking somewhere and I was bringing up the rear in our procession as were all kind of straggled out at that point. Lil was just ahead of me and I think I was concentrating on something ahead in the distance - remember now, everything we were seeing was new to us. It was raining lightly and I was only dimly aware of a Japanese fellow as he walked by me from the opposite direction. And just as he passed from my peripheral vision, he snarled and barked at me - just like a dog! So startled was I that I actually jumped a bit. And as I turned to face my attacker, I then noticed that he had a small dog in his coat pocket - one that had obviously taken an instant disliking to me. By now, Lil had come back to see what the commotion was and when I told her that I thought this guy had barked at me - well, I think something just snapped and we both started laughing hysterically. Gosh, I only hope now in looking back that that guy with the dog didn't think we were nuts! Oh, well....
I forgot to mention that, at the beginning of this day, we had stopped at a deli store and purchased sandwiches, etc. for our lunch. This was so that we could later attend a parade that we now found ourselves heading toward in downtown Kyoto. A short distance from the subway outlet, we found ourselves a good vantage point and settled in to watch what proved to be a two hour long plus parade - the purpose of which never was very well explained. As parades go, this was a good one with lots of color and bright costumes. And having the sack lunches also hit the spot as it was well past lunch time by the time the parade began. There were horses and characters dressed as ancient Japanese warriors, princes, etc. There were also ladies with white facial makeup who seemed to command much attention.
Standing to watch the parade, while fun and entertaining, was tiresome. So we were glad to finally get back to our hotel room and rest up at the end of this particular day. We also did some laundry using the coin operated facility that was conveniently located near our room. I also visited a nearby Internet Cafe‚ and sent some messages home to assure our kids that we hadn't been affected by the typhoon. From here, I also made arrangements to have our main baggage sent on to Tokyo and we just took a change of clothing and overnight stuff with us to Hiroshima.
This actually brought an end to the formal S-W gathering - although most of us had arranged to extend our stay in Japan and many of us actually traveled together. And, thanks to our hosts, several of them also accompanied us on this extended tour (as I have often said, the courtesy, helpfulness, and unselfishness that Miki, Mitsue, Ichiro, and Toshio each extended to us was simply mind boggling - and it certainly was greatly appreciated).
We said our goodbyes to Kees and Kekou who were leaving that evening to go to a place south of Osaka where they were going to begin a lengthy pilgrimage hike. It doesn't feel like we got to spend a lot of time with Kees and Kekou. However, we did spend some time on the train one day talking to them and Kees told us all about his comic book shop in Amsterdam. As he talked while looking up over the top of his reading glasses, his hair a bit disheveled, he reminded me some of Geppeddo in the story of Pinocchio. And then Kekou told us all about their parrot, Daantje, and how she finally rigged up a portable cage so that he (or is it, she - I forget!) could accompany them on some of their many hikes.
By now, I begin to realize that K C has left our ranks and has headed back to Hong Kong. I feel bad that we didn't realize that at the time and that we wouldn't be seeing him again and, hence, didn't really get a chance to say a proper, "Goodbye." All the more reason for us to resolve to make the trip someday to Hong Kong and visit you, K C ! (wink!).
Saturday, October 23:
A number of us board the Shinkansen for Hiroshima. And, thanks to Miki, we had reserved seats which she had thought to arrange for us long in advance. The group now consists of Esther, Anne, Jutta, Lily, Verbeck, Michel, Mimi, Lil and myself - along with Miki who had never been to Hiroshima, herself. The train ride was quite interesting as we passed through lots of cosmopolitan areas as well as open countryside. We arrive in Hiroshima station and catch a bus to our hotel, the International Youth Hostel. We find that we can't check in until 3:00 PM - so we stow our bags and head in the direction of the Peace Memorial. However, it is lunch time and we finally all agree on a sidewalk Cafe to stop at. Inside, we find a curious vending machine arrangement. Miki finally figures out that we each have to order our food and pay for it from this vending machine. Once our transaction is complete, we get a ticket which is then handed to a waitress who then processes the order. A most interesting thingy - and quite unique to this observer! The lunch turns out to be surprisingly good. Lil and I each had some sort of rice and shrimp pilaf which we have by now become very accustomed to.
After lunch, we walk on about two blocks to the Peace Memorial. I won't go into the history of Hiroshima - I have to believe that any enlightened person in this day and age knows what happened here in August of 1945.I will say this, however - the Peace Memorial here is far more comprehensive and impressive that I could have ever imagined. That along with some other things that have been preserved certainly made the trip worthwhile and I am sincerely glad that we made the journey here. To say that it was an emotional experience would indeed be an understatement. I came away from here fully concurring with all those who see the folly of war and how perfectly ridiculous it is for anyone to think that unfettered force and brute power should ever be allowed to prevail. Going thru the Peace Memorial is something that I believe a person needs to do alone as there is a lot to ponder and try to assimilate. And, as I said, it can be a very gut wrenching experience.
Lil and I then walked together to the Children's Memorial. This is just north of the Peace Memorial and is in honor of a little girl whose name was Sadako. She was in Hiroshima the day the bomb fell and received massive doses of radiation. She survived the initial blast, however, and spent many years in a hospital while undergoing treatment for leukemia - which she finally succumbed to. It was while trying to recuperate that she started making origami cranes and tying them in batches to strings. The story of her crane making spread and, today, children all over the world are encouraged to make a thousand cranes and tie them to a string. These can then be sent to an address in Hiroshima and they will eventually be placed on display at Sadako's Children's Memorial.
We then walked a short distance away and visited the Atomic Dome - which is the remnants of a school building that was very near the epicenter where the bomb exploded overhead. For some reason, this school building was one of the few buildings in Hiroshima that was not completely leveled by the blast. It has now been preserved - exactly as it was right after the bomb blast - and the plan is to keep it as a permanent reminder. As I said, it really is a drain on one's emotions to witness these things, today, and ponder what it must have been like.
By now, it was past 3:00 PM and we had found our way back to the hotel to get checked in. Our room was nice and we actually had the most spare room here of any of the hotels we stayed at. We also found a nice restaurant in the hotel which ended up being where the whole group later met and had dinner. Back in our room, Lil was taking a shower and I had the TV on to news channel which I was not really paying much attention to because the announcer was speaking in Japanese. All at once, I noticed some footage showing a shaky scene in a grocery store where cans were falling off the shelf. Then the picture turned to a map of Japan showing the area north of Tokyo - and it was then that it began to dawn on me that there must have been an earthquake.
It wasn't until the next day that we found out that the quake was in a rural area well north of Tokyo and that, due to much rain from the typhoon, the quake had triggered massive mud slides and several people had in fact been killed. Ichiro was at home in Gyoda (which is near Tokyo) at the time of the earthquake and he later reported that this was the strongest quake he has ever personally felt. Fortunately, there was no visible damage in or around Ichiro's home.
After cleaning up and resting for a while in our room, we then met the others in the restaurant I previously mentioned and had a nice dinner. Just before we sat down, Miki had asked if this might be a suitable place and time for me to recite the Robert Service poems that I had offered to do a long time ago. So, after we finished eating, Miki gave me the high sign and I gave a quick and impromptu lead-in to the life and times of Robert Service and how it was that he came to be known as the "Yukon Poet." I then recited "The Cremation of Sam McGee" and "The Shooting of Dan McGrew."
Sunday, October 24th:
After breakfast, we all find our way to the ferry boat to Miyajima Island. Since ancient times, Miyajima has been regarded as one of the "Three Most Beautiful Spots" of Japan, and as a part of the Seto Inland Sea National Park, it has received several distinctions, such as a place of extraordinary scenic beauty, exceptional history, a scenic zone, and a natural monument. The island is roughly rectangular, with a length of 5.6mi(9km) and width of 3.7mi(6km). Mt. Misen, Mt. Komagabayashi, and Mt. Iwafune are located on Miyajima, and all three rise and tower over the shoreline of this mountainous island.
On the ferry, Lil notes that there is a group of Boy Scouts who have gathered on the lower deck - she encourages me to go down and meet them as she knows that I used to be in the Boy Scouts. So, I get up and wander to the stairs and walk down. Sure enough, I see a group of boys and I walk up and flash the Boy Scout sign with my right hand. This consists of holding one's thumb over the little finger while keeping the other three fingers extended upwards. That must have been correct because the next thing I know, I see lots of returning Scout signs - and lots of grins and "Konnichi wa's!" I then did my best to introduce myself to some of the boys and extended my hand which was shaken many times. I then said, "Hajimemashite," which means, "Nice to meet you." So, assuming that not too much got "lost in translation," I guess I'm here to tell you that the Scouting movement is alive and well in Japan.
Also on the ferry to Miyajima was an American lady whose name was Joan that we befriended and have a nice chat with. She is a retired medical doctor who did her undergraduate studies at Northwestern University (near Chicago) and now lives in the Philadelphia area. She now travels a lot and was going to stay the night on Miyajima in one of its several resort hotels before meeting up with some friends.
We no sooner come ashore at Miyajima than we start to see those deer - or shika. And these guys are really tame and know the drill. As a matter of fact, if you don't start offering these deer something to eat, they start rummaging around in your pockets with their muzzles. Methinks a little bit of this might start to go a long ways. Lil and I get a map of the island and, after deciding on a strategy, we set off. The island has hundreds of small shops and boutiques and we buy several pairs of designer chopsticks to give to our kids. Plus we buy other little goodies too numerous to mention. We note that, no matter the size of value of every purchase, each item is carefully wrapped and folded with care by the merchant. And, as we get our change and hear the now familiar refrain, "Arigato goziamaus," I now say, "Doo itashimashite," or "You're welcome!" I wish you could see the warm smiles (and sometimes, giggles) that this expression invokes!
As we walk up a back trail on the island, we come to an area where some pretty good sized trees have been uprooted. Then I overhear someone say that this was caused by the typhoon that went through here a few days ago. I really hadn't give much thought to the typhoons up until now - but seeing this gave me pause!
On the way back to the ferry, I see the familiar icon that denotes a Post Office. By now, I have come to equate the Post Office with ATM. And since I need some cash, I make a pit stop! As I'm getting my money from the ATM, I think, "What's with this picture? An American half way around the world - in a place he never heard of a few weeks ago - getting Yen while his bank account gets debited in dollars - this after sticking a plastic card in a slot and making a few strokes on a key board." Ah - such is life in the fast lane! We then go back to our hotel, check out, and head for the train station to board the night train to Tokyo.
Monday, October 25th:
The train ride from Hiroshima to Tokyo was about what I expected. However, some in our party were apparently expecting more private accommodations and amenities. This was the only portion of our journey where we were by ourselves without the presence of one of our Japanese hosts. Miki had made the reservations for us and - in all fairness to Miki - I doubt that she ever rode on the night train, herself. As I said, it was pretty much what I expected and reminded me a lot of the sleeping car scene in the movie, "Some Like it Hot," where Tony Curtis and Jack Lemmon pose as girls while trying to score with Marilyn Monroe. We had exactly the same type of sleeping car where there are four people to a cubicle - two upper and two lower - and you simply slide a curtain around your bunk when you want some privacy. It also reminded me a lot of our sleeping arrangements in the Navy when I was aboard the aircraft carriers.
There were toilet facilities in the adjacent cars and one even featured a Western style toilet. However, there was no potable water in the bathroom so you had to take bottled water with you to brush your teeth. Also, while there was a dinning car of sorts, since this was a night run, no provisions had been made for any kind of hot food or drink to be made available. This was not a Shinkansen and it made several stops during the night. I did manage to sleep (I took one of the upper bunks) some although I also seemed to be aware of all the jostles we made as we slogged our way to Tokyo. We pulled into the Tokyo station at about 7:30 AM on Monday morning where we were greeted by Ichiro who was waiting for us right at the platform.
We found our way to the Asia Center Hotel, had a quick breakfast, and were told to come back in the afternoon to check in. At that point, we were joined by Miki's sister, Yukiko, who along with Ichiro, accompanied us on several of our outings in and around Tokyo. The first place we go is called Kaminari Mon - the gate to Sensouji temple in Asakusa. This seems to be a big attraction and lots of people gather to have their picture taken by a big lantern near the entrance. We also spend some time browsing the many shops (Nakamise) that are in this area.
Then we go on a river boat tour that took us under no less than thirteen (count 'em!) bridges that span this major river in the heart of Tokyo. I know of some U.S. cities that could learn something from this - there are often lots of traffic bottlenecks due to not enough bridges spanning rivers. We see lots of high rise buildings with real neat architectural touches. At one point, Ichiro points out an apartment building and says that Hideki Matsui (who plays left field for the New York Yankees and is a national hero in Japan) used to live there and that it is one of the most expensive pads in all of Tokyo! A lady in the seat ahead of us snacks on sushi and chips the entire trip which probably lasted about an hour. Such a small lady - I wonder where she puts it all?!
We get off the river boat and start walking through a nice little park like area. The dirt trail meanders around and there are several little ponds well stocked with Koi with neat little arched bridges in between. One of the bridges we cross has a "zig-zag" built in and I comment to one of our party that I had read that this is sometimes done on purpose in Japanese gardens so that evil spirits cannot follow. She looks at me with skepticism and I can tell she doesn't think I know what I'm talking about. Always present in the background are the city skyscrapers of Tokyo - it reminds me some of Central Park in New York City. At one point we come to a 300 year old black pine tree that seems to be quite an attraction.
We then walk on several blocks to the fish market area. However, it is now midday and the activity on the docks has by now ended and all that can be seen now is people cleaning up and washing things off with water hoses.
We return to the hotel spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing and then we have a nice dinner at the hotel restaurant. This hotel features coin operated computers in the lobby that have dedicated Internet connections. So for only about 100 or 200 Yen, it is fairly easy to check a Hotmail account for messages and to send a quick message home. The one thing I didn't like was that these computers used some type of browser that I was not familiar with which was always there by default. I couldn't get to a command prompt and, therefore, I couldn't do a Telnet connection to my Purdue account. But this was only a minor inconvenience.
Tuesday, October 26th:
It rains all day today - the remnants of yet another typhoon, the 2nd one to hit Japan within a few days. Tamae, a friend of Miki, and Seishi Nakamura, who belonged to S-W some time ago and left when the volume of daily email became unmanageable (we understand, Seishi!), join us today as we meet in the hotel lobby and prepare to tour some more temples. I guess my note taking was starting to slip at this point as I failed to note the name of the temple and grounds we visit. But, as with all the others we have seen in Japan, this place is immaculate with well manicured gardens and all kinds of interesting sculptures.
We have lunch this day at a quaint little restaurant a short ways from the temple we have just visited. Lil and I have our usual fare of rice and shrimp pilaf with some tempura on the side. The hot tea that we are provided with really hits the spot on such a rainy day.
Then Tamae takes us to the Kamakurabori Art Center - and this turns out to be a real special treat. The art center is a place where several ladies come off and on and do intricate wood carving. Some of the projects they are working on are breathtaking and their skills are truly remarkable. Tamae introduces us and then we split up and freely mix with the ladies as they do their woodcarving. Several of us are taking pictures and then, some of the woodcarvers get their cameras out - and it becomes a big mutual picture taking affair. We must have spent the better part of hour and I only wish it were possible in words to convey the beauty of some of the wood sculptures these ladies were turning out. After we leave the art center, we then go down an avenue which contains some outlet stores that actually sell some of the wood carvings that we have just seen. At one shop, Lil buys a small bowl which she will give to our son, Charlie, who really appreciates this sort of thing.
Allow me to say a word or two about the Japan Rail Pass at this point. As a visitor to Japan, one is entitled to purchase one of these passes which allow you to ride anywhere in Japan on a JR train. Getting the pass is a bit awkward as one must first obtain an Exchange Order which is purchased in one's home country within 90 days of one's visit. The EO is then exchanged for a rail pass when you actually get to Japan. The passes can be purchased for seven, fourteen, or twenty one days. And by having the pass, all you have to do is flash it to an attendant at a train station and you can literally ride any train for any length of time. Of course, the amount of traveling would dictate whether or not a JRP would be a prudent purchase. To someone who wasn't going to travel much, this would obviously not be worthwhile. For us, however, especially during our 2nd week in Japan, the Japan Rail Pass really made traveling a breeze and a painless endeavor.
Another thing I wish to comment on is the Braille sidewalks that seem to abound in all the major cities. This may be a feature that is not unique to Japan - but I have never noticed them before, anywhere. For a blind person, Japan would be a nice place to get around.
We visit another temple this afternoon and the highlight of this visit is an amusing little anecdote I will pass along whereby it is my assessment that the Buddha does not necessarily answer all individual prayer requests that are made - allow me to explain. Outside this temple, there is an offering area with instructions (in English & Japanese) that go on to tell that for 500 Yen, one can pick up a wooden card (about the size of a post card) which has a string attached at the corners and write a prayer request for the Buddha to consider. You are then instructed to hang the card on one of several pegs (each peg is long enough to contain several of these requests) where it will then get the Buddha's consideration in the coming months. An observer is, of course, free to look at the many wooden cards that have been submitted previously. Most are in Japanese but a few are in English - and one of them catches my eye right away. It is a request which reads, "We wish for George W. Bush to NOT be re-elected!" and it is signed, "Phil & Shoko." So, since I later learn that Dubya IS re-elected, that is how I have concluded that the Buddha does not always grant every request. ;-)
We get back to the hotel and start packing our bags as Lil and I will be returning tomorrow by ourselves to Osaka to get ready for the trip back to the states and home. We have a nice dinner that evening in the hotel restaurant with Verbeck and Ichiro.
Wednesday, October 27th:
We check out of the hotel and Ichiro takes Lil and me with our baggage by taxi to the train station. The others have been instructed to get to the train station by train. The plan is for Lil and me to put our bags in temporary lockers as we aren't scheduled to board the train for Osaka until about 2:00 PM. Then the whole group will go to the nearby big bookstore that Ichiro has told us about the day before. Everything works out fine. We get to the station and stow our bags. Then we join up with the others and walk a short distance to the bookstore - and this really is a nice and very well stocked book store. Lil is in heaven, here, and locates some Japanese comic books for our granddaughters. Finally, after buying about 4,000 Yen worth of merchandise, we leave and start walking toward the grounds of the Imperial Palace.
The current Imperial Palace (Kokyo) is located on the former site of Edo Castle, a large park area surrounded by moats and massive stone walls in the center of Tokyo, a short walk from Tokyo station. It is the residence of Japan's Imperial Family. Edo Castle used to be the seat of the Tokugawa shogun who ruled Japan from 1603 until 1867. In 1868, the shogunate was overthrown, and the country's capital and Imperial Residence were moved from Kyoto to Tokyo. Until 1888, when the new Imperial Palace was completed, the Emperor resided at Edo Castle, then called Kyujo. The palace was once destroyed during World War Two, and rebuilt in the same style, afterwards.
From Koyo Gaien, the large plaza in front of the Imperial Palace, visitors can view the Nijubashi, two bridges that form an entrance to the inner palace grounds. The stone bridge in front is called Meganebashi (Eyeglass Bridge) for its looks. The bridge in the back was formerly a wooden bridge with two levels, from which the name Nijubashi (Double Bridge) is derived. The palace buildings and inner gardens are not open to the public. Only on January 2 (New Year's Greeting) and December 23 (Emperor's Birthday), visitors are able to enter the inner palace grounds and see the members of the Imperial Family, who make several public appearances on a balcony. Needless to say, we do not see any of the Imperial Family.
Ichiro suggests we go to a restaurant which is not far from the train station where we can have lunch. In the meantime, however, I'm running low on cash and ask Ichiro where there might be a Post Office (and an ATM!). Ichiro thinks for a moment, tells the rest of the group the directions to the restaurant and says to me, "Follow me!" So, off we go. And we go - and go. We walk - and then we walk some more. Finally - after what seems at least two or three miles, we come to the Post Office and I get my money. When we finally join up with the others, I am famished. I order a small pizza at the restaurant and it really hits the spot. Another amusing little incident takes place at the restaurant which provides for some comic relief. The place was very crowded with limited seating facilities when we entered. As a result, we were split into two groups and I don't actually pay much attention to where the other bunch of our party (which includes Verbeck) goes. Later, as we are finishing I see Ichiro (who is at our table) looking around to see if the others might also be finishing. Ichiro is looking to his right but, in the distance over Ichiro's left shoulder, I spot Verbeck and tell Ichiro that he is looking in the wrong place. Ichiro shoots me one of those "Duh - what in the hell are you talking about?" looks and I then point to where I think Verbeck is. It is then that I realize that I am looking at a wall-to-wall mirror - and the restaurant is only about half as big as I thought. Verbeck and the others are clearly NOT where I think they are. So the joke's on me and everyone at our table has a good laugh over that one.
After lunch we all walk back to the train station and it is here that Ichiro tells Lil and me that we must say our goodbyes to the group as he will now accompany us to the platform where we will be boarding our train for Osaka. This is always a difficult time for me - I hate saying goodbye. At any rate, after much hugging, shaking hands - and all with tears in my eyes and a lump in my throat - we leave everyone and go retrieve our bags from the lockers. Ichiro takes us right up to the platform of the Shinkansen and we say goodbye to him so that he can then go and rejoin the others.
The train arrives on time (you can literally set your watch by the arrival times of trains and subways in Japan - they are uncannily punctual!) and we go to our assigned seats which Miki has reserved for us long ago. The ride to Osaka is interesting but, since the weather outside is overcast, I am disappointed that we never do get a glimpse of Mount Fuji which I understand is visible from Tokyo on a clear day. The ride to Osaka takes about three hours and, as we pull into Osaka station, there is Mitsue standing on the platform to greet us - and she is positioned at the very door we will be coming out of!
We take a taxi to the Umeshin hotel and say goodbye and thank Mitsue who has some things at home that she must take care of. As I have said before, Mitsue, you really knocked yourself out and went "that extra mile" to see that we had a good time - and we really appreciate all those efforts! We get situated in our room, clean up, and then meet Michel (Sorry I misspelled your name in previous reports, Michel!) and Mimi in the lobby where we have arranged previously to meet and go on to dinner. Michel says he knows of a good Chinese place that is only a short distance away so off we go. Once seated at the Cafe‚ Michel looks at the menu and suggests that we all get a rice, pork, chicken, and egg plant dish that he is familiar with. That sounds good to Lil and me and Michel places the order (as I recall, a young lady from a nearby table who spoke some English offered to assist, also). At any rate, the meal was wonderful and Lil and I ate our fill. It was fun hearing Michel and Mimi tell about their apartment in Paris and how it is not far away from a bakery. Apparently, they are never wanting for fresh bread and other bakery delights. I am sure we would like to visit them, someday. We get back to the hotel and say goodbye to Michel and Mimi who must rise early in the Morning to take the train to Kansai and get an early departure for their flight home.
Thursday, October 28th:
We check out of the Umeshin and there is Toshio to greet us promptly at 9:00 AM. Since we don't have to catch the train to Kansai until mid afternoon, we leave our baggage at the hotel and take a taxi to the Osaka Planetarium (Toshio has no doubt looked at my web site and noticed that I am an amateur astronomy buff of sorts!). We arrive at the planetarium and notice right away that it sports a lot of polished steel and looks fairly new. Toshio tells us that it is only a few years old and is one of the five best planetariums in the world. And just as with all the shrines and temples that we have visited, this place is overrun with school children who are obviously on a field trip. We go inside and an attendant shows us a mockup of an early mechanism that was once used to synchronize a telescope's movement with the rotation of the Earth. We then go into the main auditorium and have a seat amid of sea of Japanese school children. Before the show starts, we exchange many "Hello's" and "Ohayo, gozaimaus's!"
The show itself consisted of overhead views of the heavens with superimposed tracings of the various constellations. It was sort of like being in an IMAX theater - only with a wall-to-wall and ceiling to floor view. The narrator spoke in Japanese and even though Lil and I couldn't follow that, we still were able to watch and understand as he would go from one constellation to the next. Of course there were lots of simulations that we could follow such as black holes, worm holes, super novas, etc. I think things like this are understood in any language. This was definitely an experience that we won't soon forget - thank you, Toshio.
Toshio then takes us up on the top floor of a tall building to a private club that he belongs to. From here we can see a panoramic view of Osaka - and it is breathtaking. I take several pictures. We then have lunch in a nice little out-of-the-way spot. Lil and I had some plain rice with tempura, shrimp, and vegetables on the side. At one point, Lil asks me to try something on her plate and I do. It is octopus and I find it to be rather neutral in terms of taste and a bit rubbery in consistency.
Even though we don't have to board our plane until nearly 5:00 PM, I start looking at my watch and Toshio assures me that we have plenty of time. I still insist that we return to the Umeshin to get our bags and finally, Toshio relents. It's nothing personal, Toshio - I just have "this thing" about not wanting to be late for things.
So, we get our bags and take a taxi to the train station. We get to Kansai around 3:00 PM and we immediately go to the United Airlines departure terminal and get processed in. After we get our bags checked through and receive our boarding passes, then Toshio shows us around. I have indicated how impressed I am with the artificial island that the airport is built on and Toshio shows us to an area where we can observe that they are now in the process of building an adjacent island that will accommodate a 2nd runway. I knew this was being considered but had no idea that it was actually underway. I sense that Toshio, personally, is of the belief that all this is NOT a prudent expenditure in terms of a cost/benefit analysis. However, he is simply being a good host and showing me what I want to see - and for that, I am grateful. Thank you, Toshio.
Lil had asked about some Starbucks coffee and Toshio then takes us to a Starbucks coffee shop and treats Lil to a latte and me to a cup of black coffee. After that we go to the boarding area and, there, we have to say goodbye to Toshio. Thanks for everything, Toshio - you are a true gentleman!
We board our plane for home without incident and the trip home actually goes a little quicker than the trip here. We have a tail wind it seems and we get to Chicago almost an hour ahead of schedule. Customs in Chicago goes pretty quickly and finally we find ourselves on the plane for Indianapolis. We get to Indy, claim our bags, and I even manage to find our car in the parking lot pretty quickly - and it starts right up. (I have this double horror that I will not be able to remember where I parked or that I left the lights on earlier and now the battery is dead.) We finally get home about 9:00 PM and there is all the mail that has accumulated - right in the middle of our kitchen table. Our cat is meowing that she is hungry.......and life goes on. A fitting end to a wonderful two week period that we will cherish forever.
fishertrin@gmail.comCopyright © 2004 - Thomas R. Fisher, All Rights Reserved.
Go to Tom's
Netlink Page
Go to Tom's
Purdue Page